Women’s clothing usually gets all the attention, but that doesn’t mean we should completely forget about men’s clothing.In fact, the modest men’s suit, one of the most difficult to make in the fashion world, has undergone countless changes over the years.
The invention of the suit today is often credited with Bo Bromel, a wealthy and elegant man who lived in the early nineteenth century.
The high society encouraged the elimination of black drop coats and wigs, in favor of sewing more streamlined and simple clothes, similar to the style we know today, despite the presence of men’s coats, horse riding shoes, and neckties.
Since that time, the men’s suit has become a world in its own right. Looking completely custom-made may not be a daily occurrence for many of us.
Most men had given up wearing long jackets by the early twentieth century, and so the shape of the suits had changed a lot over time.
You may be familiar with the heavy suits of the early 20th century from the popular British television series “Peaky Blinders” (British police series). Tommy Shelby and his brothers participated in this series in typical clothing at the time: three-piece suits, made of heavy materials similar to workers’ clothes.There were clothing designed to be somewhat utilitarian, with narrow jackets in muted colors, such as black, navy blue, or dark brown.
The Roaring Twenties
While the working classes clung to the suit-like suits that appeared in the Peaky Blinders series during the 1920s, the situation was different for the people with the money.
This time has been characterized by an excess of everything, so the faded-colored suits will not do the trick. Men increasingly wear evening suits with white bras during parties, or custom-made suits made of softer and more expensive materials during the day. And in the time period after World War I and World War II, fashion was a way to show off how much money a person had.
Simplicity during the 1940’s
And a change had to happen when the Second World War broke out. Wool was not available enough, which is why suit makers began experimenting with the technique of mixing fabrics. The methods used tended to reduce the cost of production, and the colors tended to be black, or the delicate patterns were of zigzag styles.
Although the suits were made to order, the shorts were not the same as the crampons we are accustomed to today. It was relatively loose, with a wrinkled, sharp curl at the bottom of the pants.
Chaos shouts are seldom neatly arranged. While the 1940s saw more simplicity in sewing clothes, they also saw an increasing demand for zoot suits.
Everything about this fashion was exaggerated: the legs of the shorts were puffed up and fastened at the bottom, the lapels of the jacket were wide and the shoulders were padded upward, and the scene was completed with a large hat and shiny shoes.
The journey began in Harlem during the 1930s, when fashion was popular with African Americans and Hispanic communities, and turned into a hot and controversial issue in the 1940s. Given that Zoot suits require a lot of materials to make, a major current condemned this behavior as unpatriotic because of the shortages that occurred during the war.
The technique became illegal in some areas of the United States, and riots occurred in 1943, when American soldiers and sailors of Mexican descent were targeted in Los Angeles while wearing zoot suits.
They have become a symbol of protests or rebellion. Historian Cathy Pace said: “For those who do not possess other forms of cultural capital, fashion can become a vehicle for your own space.”
After the wave of simplicity during the 1940’s, the 1950s and 1960s saw the emergence of some new forms of suits. It was the time of Don Grabber and Madman when many men had to wear a suit when going to work.
The fashions were good looking and fitted, with occasional short ties and bodice. And there were more opportunities to play around with patterns and colors, from lighter hues to glittery textures.
Nightclub in the seventies
Things changed again during the 1970s when vitality was the secret. The colors were bright and wild, the lapels were voluminous, and the waists were high. This brings us to the role played by American actor John Travolta in “Saturday Night Fever”.
The suits have been tested more than ever, with patterns and colors dominating.
Large in size
After the waves of excess in the 1970s, the wearing of suits has seen some decline. Apart from the occasional wearing of the light-colored suit, which required folding the sleeves in the 1980s, this decade and the following decade (the 1990s) saw more regular patterns: the colors became few and faded, and the sewing was no longer in demand.
During this time the suits were often large and appeared to be deformed. This wasn’t exactly the right time for men’s fashions, especially as the appearances were paired with wide ties to be unconventional.
Fortunately, men have become aware of the role of tailoring they are dealing with, and it is unlikely that your eyes will fall on a loose and ill-fitting suit on the red carpet. From 2000 to 2009, suits became simpler, more elegant, and more streamlined.
In recent years, men have begun to make their sewing business special. Suffice it to mention Michael Jordan wearing a red carpet belt made by French fashion firm Louis Vuitton, Timothy Chalamet in a track jacket and a tight shirt, Chadwick Boseman in a pale pink suit or Andrew Scott in a new red suit.
Especially as the fashion trend has become more fluid in terms of gender, it seems that the option for the emergence of new forms of suits has become more available than before.
The role of sewing may feel that it is still far from easing the measures related to the epidemic that we are used to, but who knows the outcome of things? Perhaps the index tilts to the other side and we return to normal, and at that time the suits will return to their previous days, but in a spirit of vengeance.